HERSCHEDE:
Most of the Herschede 9 Tube and 5 Tube grandfather clock mechanisms
are very will built. The majority of the problems on these clocks are created by well
meaning uniformed repair persons. The two racks and snails are the areas to look
first for problems . PICTURE. When the rack hook is lifted on either side (chime or
strike) ; the rack should move neither up or down; it should simply stay put as
hough nothing were happening until the hook releases it. If the angle is disturbed
on either the rack or the rack hook, then there will be a problem to the extent as to
how much the rack moves when the hook is moved up or down slowly. Be sure to
check the hub on both sides of both racks ; the angle is critical and they must be
absolutely tight. These rack problems most likely start with wear on the gathering
pallet arbor bushing. Take the time to check the operation of the gathering pallets
EXTENSIVELY before final assembly . PICTURE. Be sure to check the tightness
of the gathering pallets on their square shafts before you reassemble the mechanism.
They must be very tight on the shaft or they will work themselves loose over time.
If they are not tight , make them tight or replace them if necessary . A SMALL
amount of silver solder on the square shaft will tighten them up. remove ALL THE
SOLDERING FLUX WHEN YOU ARE DONE. Do not use soft solder it will not
hold it shape well enough.
Be sure to mark the centerpost assembly so it goes back together exactly t
he same way it came apart. (Some times the hour tube support is not symmetrical
and the center post will bind.) The same screw in the same hole and the same corner
is the same place.
Pivot polishing is critical on this mechanism especially. Many of these
mechanisms have a plating on most all the pivots. Be sure to completely disassemble
the main wheels and polish the area where they ride on the arbor behind the cupped
tension washer. If this area is not polished , the winding process will soon cause it it
bind up. Plenty of lubrication is needed here. I have heard some say why polish in
that area, you are just causing that problem; everything is fine until the plating is removed. That is all well and good if the plating in fact has not broken down. My
opinion is this : do the job once so that it will work , or do the job once so that it
might work , and then do it again so that it will work.
The moon dial on this clock will stop it if the detente spring is too tight. Be
sure to check the spring to confirm that it is just tight enough to allow the dial to
ratchet ahead and hold but no tighter.
Always check the impulse post on the pendulum. It must be tight. If it is
loose at all the clock will not run., Be sure that there are no rough spots on the post
or the impulse arm where the post rides on it.
Be aware that if the hammer lift drum is submerged in the cleaning liquid, it
es very likely that a substantial amount or the cleaner will get inside the drum and
later leak and run all over the drum and its adjacent parts. Either clean this outside
of the liquid by some other method or drill (carefully) holes in the ends of the drum
so the liquid can drain out immediately. The winding key on the 9 tube clocks is a
number 13 or 14 depending on how much wear there is on the arbor.
Very carefully check the cords that the bells hang by and the hammer
lift strings to be sure they aren’t decayed. Also check the hammer pads and change
them if they have worn through.
The drive gear system that turns the hammer lift drum needs to have some
play in the gear depthing, it must not be tight. About 30% of the way to the gear teeth
not meshing at all will allow it to work. The beveled gears are particularly critical.
The pulleys must be taken apart, cleaned and checked. The shafts that the
pulleys ride on ate pitted or scored in about 90% of the clocks that come in for a
complete overhaul.The shafts must be polished thoroughly and the pulleys rebushed
if they are loose or worn.
Always check the cables ; specifically the ends that are inside the main
wheel drums. If only the ends are bad, then simply retie the knot in the end . This
is a corner you can cut safely IF THE REST OF THE CABLE IS OK. If any breaks
or worn spots are found on the brass cable REPLACE IT.