Vienna regulator style clocks: repair hints

VIENNA REGULATORS:

These clocks are definitely not user friendly. They are incredibly sensitive;
hardly have any swing (1in. is normal) and will not run if they are even slightly out of
beat. The
beat is next to impossible to set ; the cables will always tangle, and the cases usually are
falling apart. They are beautiful clocks , however , and once set up by someone who
knows how , they will run just fine and keep good time.
The verge will have worn pallet faces quite often. there are several ways to deal
with this. Some times it will be possible to offset the escape wheel so that the teeth are
working on the part of the pallet face that hasn’t worn yet. do this by bushing both
sides of the wheel and offset the bushings slightly. If this has already been done, and
the pallet faces are worn in both places ; the pallet faces can be turned upside down
and reversed if they are held in place by screws. If it is a solid one piece verge , it will
be necessary to make a new one or fill in the worn spots. I have done this with silver
solder. This is the least desirable way to get the job done. Perhaps a better way is to
file down the verge faces past the wear point , being absolutely certain to maintain the
same angle in the faces , then using silver solder , attach new hard steel faces with a
thickness that will give the net result of being the same distance between faces as
before the wear took place. Either way will work, providing all the flux is removed
when the job is done. Be sure to polish the pallet faces when you are done. Check to
be sure that the verge is tight on the shaft. Sometimes the impulse arm will be threaded
on at the top ; and if it is , there is a good chance that it will be soldered. I have seen this many times. I remove the solder and tighten it up by threading it back on until it
is secure (tight enough to hold it in beat , but loose enough to keep from bending the
escape wheel teeth if the pendulum is swung too far. ) If solder is found on the verge
clutch like this ; be prepared to find some bent escape wheel teeth.
The impulse pin on the bottom of the impulse arm usually has a threaded
adjustment system on it. Always check that pin , there is a good chance it will be loose.
The clock will not run if that pin is loose , even slightly loose. Disassemble that
adjustment system , if need be, and tighten that pin ; it will save hours of frustration.
Many of the Vienna regulators have slightly tapered pivots; leave them that
way; and if you rebush , make sure the hole in the new bushing is tapered to match.
Most of these are very precision mechanisms they aren’t very forgiving. The pivots
are for the most part very hard steel and will break very easily.
Check to see if there is a cable/pulley stop on the bottom of the mechanism.
If there is , make sure the pulleys wind into them properly before you re-install the
mechanism. When the mechanism is apart , be sure to check the cables inside the drums
to be sure there are no bad ends there. Check the pendulum clearance with the weights
even with the pendulum bob, set the beat and let the clock run for a while to be sure
the weights and pendulum and gong will clear each other. Be sure to check the
pulleys to determine if they are worn . They must be rebushed if they are worn.The
mechanism in a Vienna regulator can’t be leaning forward or the cable will jump off
the main wheel drum.

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