It doesn’t take much to stop a clock. The most common problem is failure to
wind the mainsprings up all the way. This is a user/owner problem.
Generally speaking if a clock is stopping after it has been rebuilt check the following:
Check the beat setting
check endshake check for tight bushings
check the position of the impulse arm vs susp rod
check for bent escape wheel teeth
check for bent teeth (even slightly) every where in the gear train
check for a mounting bind (with the mechanism is mounted in the case if one of the
mounting feet is even slightly bent it can cause any one or all of the gear trains to
bind) check for barrell teeth hitting #2 wheel teeth on endshake minimum or maximum.
check for worn gear teeth
check for proper gear depthing
are the mainsprings the correct strength?
is the suspension the correct strength?
possibly the pendulum is the wrong weight
Hands rubbing on the glass at any point in the 360 degree rotation? (put your finger on
the glass over where the minute hand is located and if the hand looks closer to your
finger than the glass is thick then the hand is probably hitting on the glass.)
check for a bushing not oiled
are the hands touching each other at all anywhere?
when the clock stops , very carefully check to determine if there is any power to
the escape wheel; if there is power then be more concerned about pendulum friction,
sympathetic vibration, or suspension problems. If there is absolutely no ; or very
little then there is probably a gear train problem.
is there any air circulation around the pendulum?
are the weights magnetized and is the pendulum brass plated steel?
is the pendulum touching the back of the clock ?
Is the clock;ck sitting on a solid surface?
is the clock hanging plumb on the wall?
Is the hour tube binding?
are the chime or strike levers binding because of lack of oil or rough edges?
check the suspension post to see if the suspension is loose— If it is loose the clock
will probably stop.
check for pallet face wear
check all lubrication points.