Information to be added soon.
describe how to install barrell caps if they are loose.Installing a barrell
cap on a mainspring barrell can be a frustrating experience if the cap does not fit
snugly.Many times the caps have been forced or gouged and distorted from
mis-handling.More often the barrell itself has been distorted where the cap fits on.
There is usually a small groove with a shoulder that keeps the cap from sliding
too far into the spring.If the barrell has been soldered; expect the cap to be loose
.If you see scratches and deep gouges around the edge; this is another warning sign.
If the cap has been removed and installed too many times,the barrell will get
warped and the cap will not fit tightly.
A barrell cap can be installed by clamping the barrell and the cap at one
edge snugly ,but not destructively, in a vise with SMOOTH jaws , and then with a
leather or hardwood mallet, the other edge can be installed with some sharp tapping.
PICTURE.Do not squeeze the barrell/cap combination tight enough to distort or
destroy the small edge that holds the cap. I have also installed the caps by holding
one end of the barrell/cap in my hand and tapping on the cap with a wooden mallet
with the tooth side of the barrell sitting on a SOLID spot on the bench.This is faster
but a little bit more difficult.PICTURE. If the cap is loose IE: doesn’t stay put DO NOT
START WITH TRYING TO MAKE THE BARRELL OPENING SMALLER. DO
NOT TRY TO MODIFY THE BARRELL. Start with the cap.With a polished piece
of hard steel as an anvil ; work the edges of the cap outward gradually by hitting the
cap evenly around the entire circumference of its outer edge with a polished hammer.
Stay as close to the edge as possible without actually hitting the edge. If the cap is
steel ; this method will work ; however it will take much longer to get the diameter
of the cap increased. If one is very careful the diameter of the cap can be increased
enough to make the cap stay put nicely. Be sure to carefully check the barrell for
cracks in the sides.As one can imagine; it will not be possible to get the cap to fit
tightly if the barrell is cracked.Again; do not try to modify the barrell edge; the cap
will hold if it fits snugly. Always check the barrells before you take them apart.
If there is evidence of butchery , plan on much grief in trying to get the barrell caps
to fit properly.Don’t forget to check the cap to be sure it is flat and not cupped
before installing it on the barrell.
SELF ADJUSTING VERGE
The self adjusting verge is used on many of the modern mechanisms.
The idea is that if the tension of the verge clutch is set just tight enough to push
the pendulum ; but loose enough to allow it to split the difference between each
side of the impulse with a specially designed escape wheel that has indentations on
the teeth. After running for
ten or fifteen minutes and having the difference split minutely at each tick , the clock
will be in beat. Its a good idea and it does work usually. The most common problem
with this kind of verge is stopping. Typically they will not stay in beat if they are too
tight, and then they will stop. If they are too loose, they may stay in beat , but will
not run dependably. DO NOT EVER OIL ONE OF THESE SELF-ADJUSTING VERGES. YOU WILL RUIN IT
IF YOU OIL IT. DO NOT EVER PUT ONE OF
THESE IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANER ; THIS WILL DO THE SAME TYPE OF DAMAGE AS OILING THEM.
TUNING GONG RODS
Generally speaking, if two rods are the same length, the rod with the smaller
diameter will produce a lower note. It is possible to lower the pitch slightly by filing
off some at the top of the rod where it is tapered at the point where it joins with the
REVERE ELECTRIC W/BALANCE WHEEL AUXILIARY
The revere electric with balance wheel auxillary has auto-shift from electric motor
to balance wheel unit. The shift lever is weight / gravity activated. do not oil.Engage-
disengage is auto-activated by a lift pin on the minute wheel: the weight drops in and
engages the balance wheel. The pin on the minute/second hand wheel pushes it out again.
While the minute wheel is in the disengage position about 10 degrees or so of
rotation. the clearance between the coil field and the hold in lever will determine
whether or not it hums loudly or just barely.
Modern DOUBLE DIAL CALENDAR CLOCK
The wire spring on the feburary. cam will come loose often.The position is
critical~ Won’t advanced the month if its too shallow; and advances the month on
each day if its set too deep. The lift of the trip mechanism is also critical; it must be
just high enough to change. Also the lift pin on the trip mechanism comes loose
often. the double ratchet spring on advance shape is absolutely critical. Month Advance
must be flat on all surface of Tooth.
HAND TRIP POSITION
Many minute hands have a hub with a square hole in the center and the hub
is usually riveted or friction fit in a round hole in the hand use the end of an old
file to fit in the square hole. Hold the file end with a pair of pliers and slide the hub
until the hand trip position is accurate.
KEY OPERATED REGULATORS
Clocks with key operated regulator assemblies that typically adjust from the
dial are exceptionally prone to error from loose parts. If any part of the
regulator is excessively loose ; the clock will not keep good time. The part above the
post is also included in this. If the regulator is going to be used it must be tight
everywhere. Take it completely apart if need be ; but take care to tighten up all parts
on it. The threads must be tight on the shaft that runs the device up and down as
on the seth thomas movement.
Clocks with short pendulum lengths(5 inches and shorter) will be very prone
to errors due to loose suspensions , loose regulator assemblies and loose bushings in the
verge. The reason for this is that the error caused is a large percentage of the total
pendulum length. If a clock with a 45 inch pend has a loose regulator screw that varies
by .1inches , then the percentage is .22%. The same variation on a 5 inch pendulum
would be 2% or almost 10 times as much error.